How far is California? It depends. The state itself is about 3,000 miles away — but cuisine-wise, it’s just about 18 miles down Route 19.
Juniper Grill — a sister restaurant to the local Atria’s chain — is located in a suburban strip mall in Peters Township. But you’ll find it lightly seared in a chipotle-glazed California state of mind. From the contemporary design of its interior — more high-end than most strip-mall venues, with details such as a panel of cut logs that appeared to be either stacked for burning or arrayed as art — to its menu’s conspicuous Asian and Mexican influences, Juniper Grill cultivates an ambience of artfully casual insouciance that is very West Coast. Although it was snowing rather forcefully the night we were there, we found it easy to indulge in candle-lit fantasies of a place where everything is coming up fresh avocados.